Monday, August 25, 2008

OUR NEW FRIENDS IN KHABAROVSK

Thank you once again Alexander and Nina for your gracious hospitality
A very smart Italian restaurant, we were the only guests
Sharp eyed viewers may see Nikita fast asleep in the background

A NICE SUNNY DAY IN KHABAROVSK

The central square by the Government buildings. The city is now looking quite smart in these public areas after much money being spent from the "Anniversary" budget
Another example of the restoration work that has taken place on these churches. Inside was actually quite small

THE NEW CATHEDRAL IN MAGADAN

Saturday, August 16, 2008

AND NICE TO MEET YOU TOO VLAD


Thanks for your Grandfather's book that you gave us

A story worth telling with some amazing pictures of how he and his colleagues toiled to build the town and city of Magadan

THE NICEST THING ABOUT MAGADAN

As we said again today at lunch with our friends

Our Family, of course

And the people we met,who made us welcome and were so open about their lives, likes and dislikes. And, their curiosity about "New Zealand" too

Russians are big-hearted, warm and emotional people

These "Far East Russians" are too

HOW TO KEEP THE BEER COLD, IN SUMMER


Thanks to the local ice rink

NICE TO MEET YOU MIROSLAV AND LUBA


Thank you both for being such wonderful hosts

NICE VIEWS OF THE OCEAN, ON A LOVELY DAY TOO



A lot of this does actually "freeze over" in Winter. The next stop from here is Alaska. Apart from the richness of the fishing grounds, there is a lot of talk about vast oil and gas reserves discovered offshore.

A FAMILY OUTING TO THE BEACH

Nikita did a good job by picking the wild flowers for his Mother & Sister

Monday, August 11, 2008

VIEWS OF AND FROM OUR APARTMENT

The steel door has two deadlocks and locking bolts around 3 sides of the frame. We were the only apartment to have a light outside on the landing


The entrance to our block, which was better than most. The paper notice on the door evidently says "Don't throw rubbish out of the windows"

A good view of the central area between the blocks. Designed and built long before anyone would ever have expected to have a car, cars are now parked everywhere. They have destroyed all of the pavements and much of the "green" area, which itself is not maintained. Rubbish is piled up in the open area and regularly burnt (Underneath a sign that says "No fires")


From our kitchen window, looking at the Childrens Hospital, where Mother and baby spent the first month. The building is typical in the exterior "non maintained" appearance and 40 years of Magadan climate has taken its toll. Evidently, the inside is fine and full of new equipment. We saw kids taken outside to play a couple of times, although the grounds are not maintained either.
They say a new hospital is to be built "soon"


Looking the other way, towards a main road. The block in the distance is where we went for lunch to a "USSR" old-style workers canteen

Sunday, August 10, 2008

FROM OUR RIDE ON THE FERRIS WHEEL

The Cathedral taking shape in the background


Church in the Park

The "hot water plant" towers dominate the skyline

The "blue church" ; the "Christening House" is on the left

MOTHER & DAUGHTER / THE PROUD PARENTS



LET'S DRINK TO IT THEN


BY POPULAR REQUEST - BABY PICS



THE BIG EVENT


BORN 1976, STILL GOING STRONG

FLIGHTS TO MAGADAN

I commented twice to the RP that "Dalavia" acted as if this was the first time they had ever put a flight in the air....

The checkin process was a complete shambles, especially at Magadan

At the 9.05am departure time we were still in the queue. "We must act like Russians" said the RP, so we then joined everyone else in elbowing and pushing our way down to the front. We were then tuned up by two lots of staff for "being late" and told to "hurry"

I then noted the 3 boarding passes had us in different rows. When I tried to point out that it was not possible to seat a child on their own, the ground staff and the Flight Attendant just shrugged it off. The RP took charge and in a return to her Aeroflot Flight Manager days rearranged two lots of people so we could sit together

We eventually got in the air at 10.20am. On neither flight was there any attempt to check seat belts and stow hand baggage, which was everywhere. All announcements were in Russian, with two of them scolding people for "smoking", in the toilets I guess

The 32 year old aircraft was surprisingly clean and tidy inside and exactly as the RP fondly remembered it. ("Don't worry Boys, the IL62 is a very strong plane" said the RP) The exterior was a different story. There was no word from the flight deck on either sector ; on arrival at Khabarovsk, I watched from the bus as the Captain came downstairs and went and patted one of the main gear tyres, for luck and with thanks I guess

All the baggage is manhandled,literally. At both ends, (and for our arrival on Asiana), an open truck was used and the bags thrown (literally) to and from the hold

Of course, being Russia, this only took place at the last possible moment and with minimum speed. I watched the unloading at Khabarovsk,as our friends were waiting, and noted the driver went back to his cab to read the newspaper. Only 45 minutes this time

All this was taking place with the aircraft a mere 100 metres from the terminal itself

DID I MENTION THE COLD SHOWERS ?

In keeping with most of Russia, Magadan has a central hotwater supply

Two days after we arrived, it was shut down for 10 days for maintenance....

I got used to the daily morning cold shower, although the RP wimped out and insisted on filling every available container with hot water from our kettle

The Parents evidently had the luxury of their own "boiler" and every two days the Kids and Nikita raced over there for a treatment

The plant is a huge one and is coal-fired, all the coal being shipped in from elsewhere(during the Summer)The two chimneys were spewing clouds of smoke for the first two days of our stay, not a good look in this environment

The street next to ours had been closed and ripped up for the complete replacement of the two large water pipes

The RP and I were amused on our daily walking commutes to watch the "work" in progress. Over the 10 days we noted they had replaced perhaps 100m. Several times we noted 2-3 guys jammed in the cab of the digger or the truck fast asleep, and on another the crane driver slumped over the controls

When in the area, Alexei(like many others it appeared)simply drove up the footpath and past the barriers at either end

LIFE ON THE STREET

Given the relatively benign weather and lots of daylight, there always seemed to be a lot of people out and about

Lots of street traders too, nearly all women, and selling everything that could fetch some coin

One old woman had a box top of old nuts and bolts for sale

The street market is known as the "Chinese Market" because.....that's the people who run it,(who seem to be openly resented by the "locals")

We would have been lost here without the RP, who successfully negotiated the purchase of very good "brand" tracksuits for Nikita and I at approx USD$15 each and a nice pair of trainers for me at about USD$18

Several times noted reasonably dressed guys drunk-as-skunks in the morning and lots of people, young and old, lying around drinking at night. There are bottles everywhere

Whilst I waited outside the DVD store one morning, two people, man and woman, independently weaved their way down the footpath and collapsed into the shrubbery outside the shop. The man was still there, flat on his back, when we passed by hours later

We walked a lot, from the Kids' apartment to ours and also most days with the baby

The "footpaths" are a joke and you need a pretty good pushchair just to progress at all

Hardly anyone stops for pedestrians either, unless you push the point

Why the rush, when there is nowhere to go ?

(NO) COFFEE IN MAGADAN

Correct

Although we did get Ksenia and Alexei's own machine at home going once or twice

The "cafe" scene has yet to reach Magadan.....

"Samantha's" (allegedly owned by an American) bills itself as a fast food joint

We went there and ordered toasted sandwiches and burgers off the large signs with pictures over the counter

"They're off Dear" (I assume) the woman told Alexei

She then pointed to the "hot dishes" of local food on the counter

The RP and I decided on a "romantic dinner for two" and were directed to a basement restaurant billed as "Old Estonian" style

A comedy, especially when we tried to order a bottle of wine and.....an ice bucket

"What do you need that for ?" asked the young girl

And then, when the RP asked for......ice......for the ice bucket, the girl said "I don't know what to do"

We grappled with other issues, like my food arriving 5 minutes before the RP's, ("Did you want it together ?")

Surprisingly, for me, although there were a lot of "street traders" and a market itself, no one was cooking/offering food

OUR NEW FAMILY

We really enjoyed meeting Alexei's Parents

Miroslav and Luba are warm-hearted, down-to-earth people

We celebrated their 28th Anniversary, (they had known each other since school)

As an Army conscript, Miroslav had been sent from the Ukraine to Magadan. He made a good friend who was from Magadan itself, and after release, decided to stay

He did go back for Luba.....who against her Mother's wishes followed her new Husband to Magadan......"I cried for weeks" She told us

They lived in a hostel for 9 years until they were finally allocated their own apartment, raised two fine children, Alexei and Larisa, and built a very successful retail business

Miroslav has a terrific twinkle in his eyes, and now knows an English word - "John"

This is quickly followed by, (in Russian),"Drink your beer"

AND NOW, A CORRECTION

Alexei's Mother Luba reminded me I should not talk of "Siberia"

In fact, we are in the "Far East Region" of this huge country

I stand corrected

"Siberia" itself begins "about" 2000kms West of Magadan

We asked a lot of times about access

Our museum guide repeatedly referred to the "island of Magadan", in other words the only practical means of access (until flights appeared, for those who could afford it) was and is by ship, mostly during Summer

Alexei and others commented on the high cost of air fares to Moscow, and said for most people, leaving is not an option