Sunday, August 10, 2008
FLIGHTS TO MAGADAN
I commented twice to the RP that "Dalavia" acted as if this was the first time they had ever put a flight in the air....
The checkin process was a complete shambles, especially at Magadan
At the 9.05am departure time we were still in the queue. "We must act like Russians" said the RP, so we then joined everyone else in elbowing and pushing our way down to the front. We were then tuned up by two lots of staff for "being late" and told to "hurry"
I then noted the 3 boarding passes had us in different rows. When I tried to point out that it was not possible to seat a child on their own, the ground staff and the Flight Attendant just shrugged it off. The RP took charge and in a return to her Aeroflot Flight Manager days rearranged two lots of people so we could sit together
We eventually got in the air at 10.20am. On neither flight was there any attempt to check seat belts and stow hand baggage, which was everywhere. All announcements were in Russian, with two of them scolding people for "smoking", in the toilets I guess
The 32 year old aircraft was surprisingly clean and tidy inside and exactly as the RP fondly remembered it. ("Don't worry Boys, the IL62 is a very strong plane" said the RP) The exterior was a different story. There was no word from the flight deck on either sector ; on arrival at Khabarovsk, I watched from the bus as the Captain came downstairs and went and patted one of the main gear tyres, for luck and with thanks I guess
All the baggage is manhandled,literally. At both ends, (and for our arrival on Asiana), an open truck was used and the bags thrown (literally) to and from the hold
Of course, being Russia, this only took place at the last possible moment and with minimum speed. I watched the unloading at Khabarovsk,as our friends were waiting, and noted the driver went back to his cab to read the newspaper. Only 45 minutes this time
All this was taking place with the aircraft a mere 100 metres from the terminal itself
The checkin process was a complete shambles, especially at Magadan
At the 9.05am departure time we were still in the queue. "We must act like Russians" said the RP, so we then joined everyone else in elbowing and pushing our way down to the front. We were then tuned up by two lots of staff for "being late" and told to "hurry"
I then noted the 3 boarding passes had us in different rows. When I tried to point out that it was not possible to seat a child on their own, the ground staff and the Flight Attendant just shrugged it off. The RP took charge and in a return to her Aeroflot Flight Manager days rearranged two lots of people so we could sit together
We eventually got in the air at 10.20am. On neither flight was there any attempt to check seat belts and stow hand baggage, which was everywhere. All announcements were in Russian, with two of them scolding people for "smoking", in the toilets I guess
The 32 year old aircraft was surprisingly clean and tidy inside and exactly as the RP fondly remembered it. ("Don't worry Boys, the IL62 is a very strong plane" said the RP) The exterior was a different story. There was no word from the flight deck on either sector ; on arrival at Khabarovsk, I watched from the bus as the Captain came downstairs and went and patted one of the main gear tyres, for luck and with thanks I guess
All the baggage is manhandled,literally. At both ends, (and for our arrival on Asiana), an open truck was used and the bags thrown (literally) to and from the hold
Of course, being Russia, this only took place at the last possible moment and with minimum speed. I watched the unloading at Khabarovsk,as our friends were waiting, and noted the driver went back to his cab to read the newspaper. Only 45 minutes this time
All this was taking place with the aircraft a mere 100 metres from the terminal itself
DID I MENTION THE COLD SHOWERS ?
In keeping with most of Russia, Magadan has a central hotwater supply
Two days after we arrived, it was shut down for 10 days for maintenance....
I got used to the daily morning cold shower, although the RP wimped out and insisted on filling every available container with hot water from our kettle
The Parents evidently had the luxury of their own "boiler" and every two days the Kids and Nikita raced over there for a treatment
The plant is a huge one and is coal-fired, all the coal being shipped in from elsewhere(during the Summer)The two chimneys were spewing clouds of smoke for the first two days of our stay, not a good look in this environment
The street next to ours had been closed and ripped up for the complete replacement of the two large water pipes
The RP and I were amused on our daily walking commutes to watch the "work" in progress. Over the 10 days we noted they had replaced perhaps 100m. Several times we noted 2-3 guys jammed in the cab of the digger or the truck fast asleep, and on another the crane driver slumped over the controls
When in the area, Alexei(like many others it appeared)simply drove up the footpath and past the barriers at either end
Two days after we arrived, it was shut down for 10 days for maintenance....
I got used to the daily morning cold shower, although the RP wimped out and insisted on filling every available container with hot water from our kettle
The Parents evidently had the luxury of their own "boiler" and every two days the Kids and Nikita raced over there for a treatment
The plant is a huge one and is coal-fired, all the coal being shipped in from elsewhere(during the Summer)The two chimneys were spewing clouds of smoke for the first two days of our stay, not a good look in this environment
The street next to ours had been closed and ripped up for the complete replacement of the two large water pipes
The RP and I were amused on our daily walking commutes to watch the "work" in progress. Over the 10 days we noted they had replaced perhaps 100m. Several times we noted 2-3 guys jammed in the cab of the digger or the truck fast asleep, and on another the crane driver slumped over the controls
When in the area, Alexei(like many others it appeared)simply drove up the footpath and past the barriers at either end
LIFE ON THE STREET
Given the relatively benign weather and lots of daylight, there always seemed to be a lot of people out and about
Lots of street traders too, nearly all women, and selling everything that could fetch some coin
One old woman had a box top of old nuts and bolts for sale
The street market is known as the "Chinese Market" because.....that's the people who run it,(who seem to be openly resented by the "locals")
We would have been lost here without the RP, who successfully negotiated the purchase of very good "brand" tracksuits for Nikita and I at approx USD$15 each and a nice pair of trainers for me at about USD$18
Several times noted reasonably dressed guys drunk-as-skunks in the morning and lots of people, young and old, lying around drinking at night. There are bottles everywhere
Whilst I waited outside the DVD store one morning, two people, man and woman, independently weaved their way down the footpath and collapsed into the shrubbery outside the shop. The man was still there, flat on his back, when we passed by hours later
We walked a lot, from the Kids' apartment to ours and also most days with the baby
The "footpaths" are a joke and you need a pretty good pushchair just to progress at all
Hardly anyone stops for pedestrians either, unless you push the point
Why the rush, when there is nowhere to go ?
Lots of street traders too, nearly all women, and selling everything that could fetch some coin
One old woman had a box top of old nuts and bolts for sale
The street market is known as the "Chinese Market" because.....that's the people who run it,(who seem to be openly resented by the "locals")
We would have been lost here without the RP, who successfully negotiated the purchase of very good "brand" tracksuits for Nikita and I at approx USD$15 each and a nice pair of trainers for me at about USD$18
Several times noted reasonably dressed guys drunk-as-skunks in the morning and lots of people, young and old, lying around drinking at night. There are bottles everywhere
Whilst I waited outside the DVD store one morning, two people, man and woman, independently weaved their way down the footpath and collapsed into the shrubbery outside the shop. The man was still there, flat on his back, when we passed by hours later
We walked a lot, from the Kids' apartment to ours and also most days with the baby
The "footpaths" are a joke and you need a pretty good pushchair just to progress at all
Hardly anyone stops for pedestrians either, unless you push the point
Why the rush, when there is nowhere to go ?
(NO) COFFEE IN MAGADAN
Correct
Although we did get Ksenia and Alexei's own machine at home going once or twice
The "cafe" scene has yet to reach Magadan.....
"Samantha's" (allegedly owned by an American) bills itself as a fast food joint
We went there and ordered toasted sandwiches and burgers off the large signs with pictures over the counter
"They're off Dear" (I assume) the woman told Alexei
She then pointed to the "hot dishes" of local food on the counter
The RP and I decided on a "romantic dinner for two" and were directed to a basement restaurant billed as "Old Estonian" style
A comedy, especially when we tried to order a bottle of wine and.....an ice bucket
"What do you need that for ?" asked the young girl
And then, when the RP asked for......ice......for the ice bucket, the girl said "I don't know what to do"
We grappled with other issues, like my food arriving 5 minutes before the RP's, ("Did you want it together ?")
Surprisingly, for me, although there were a lot of "street traders" and a market itself, no one was cooking/offering food
Although we did get Ksenia and Alexei's own machine at home going once or twice
The "cafe" scene has yet to reach Magadan.....
"Samantha's" (allegedly owned by an American) bills itself as a fast food joint
We went there and ordered toasted sandwiches and burgers off the large signs with pictures over the counter
"They're off Dear" (I assume) the woman told Alexei
She then pointed to the "hot dishes" of local food on the counter
The RP and I decided on a "romantic dinner for two" and were directed to a basement restaurant billed as "Old Estonian" style
A comedy, especially when we tried to order a bottle of wine and.....an ice bucket
"What do you need that for ?" asked the young girl
And then, when the RP asked for......ice......for the ice bucket, the girl said "I don't know what to do"
We grappled with other issues, like my food arriving 5 minutes before the RP's, ("Did you want it together ?")
Surprisingly, for me, although there were a lot of "street traders" and a market itself, no one was cooking/offering food
OUR NEW FAMILY
We really enjoyed meeting Alexei's Parents
Miroslav and Luba are warm-hearted, down-to-earth people
We celebrated their 28th Anniversary, (they had known each other since school)
As an Army conscript, Miroslav had been sent from the Ukraine to Magadan. He made a good friend who was from Magadan itself, and after release, decided to stay
He did go back for Luba.....who against her Mother's wishes followed her new Husband to Magadan......"I cried for weeks" She told us
They lived in a hostel for 9 years until they were finally allocated their own apartment, raised two fine children, Alexei and Larisa, and built a very successful retail business
Miroslav has a terrific twinkle in his eyes, and now knows an English word - "John"
This is quickly followed by, (in Russian),"Drink your beer"
Miroslav and Luba are warm-hearted, down-to-earth people
We celebrated their 28th Anniversary, (they had known each other since school)
As an Army conscript, Miroslav had been sent from the Ukraine to Magadan. He made a good friend who was from Magadan itself, and after release, decided to stay
He did go back for Luba.....who against her Mother's wishes followed her new Husband to Magadan......"I cried for weeks" She told us
They lived in a hostel for 9 years until they were finally allocated their own apartment, raised two fine children, Alexei and Larisa, and built a very successful retail business
Miroslav has a terrific twinkle in his eyes, and now knows an English word - "John"
This is quickly followed by, (in Russian),"Drink your beer"
AND NOW, A CORRECTION
Alexei's Mother Luba reminded me I should not talk of "Siberia"
In fact, we are in the "Far East Region" of this huge country
I stand corrected
"Siberia" itself begins "about" 2000kms West of Magadan
We asked a lot of times about access
Our museum guide repeatedly referred to the "island of Magadan", in other words the only practical means of access (until flights appeared, for those who could afford it) was and is by ship, mostly during Summer
Alexei and others commented on the high cost of air fares to Moscow, and said for most people, leaving is not an option
In fact, we are in the "Far East Region" of this huge country
I stand corrected
"Siberia" itself begins "about" 2000kms West of Magadan
We asked a lot of times about access
Our museum guide repeatedly referred to the "island of Magadan", in other words the only practical means of access (until flights appeared, for those who could afford it) was and is by ship, mostly during Summer
Alexei and others commented on the high cost of air fares to Moscow, and said for most people, leaving is not an option
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