Thank you once again Alexander and Nina for your gracious hospitality
A very smart Italian restaurant, we were the only guests
Sharp eyed viewers may see Nikita fast asleep in the background
Monday, August 25, 2008
OUR NEW FRIENDS IN KHABAROVSK
Thank you once again Alexander and Nina for your gracious hospitalityA very smart Italian restaurant, we were the only guestsSharp eyed viewers may see Nikita fast asleep in the background
A NICE SUNNY DAY IN KHABAROVSK
The central square by the Government buildings. The city is now looking quite smart in these public areas after much money being spent from the "Anniversary" budget
Another example of the restoration work that has taken place on these churches. Inside was actually quite small
Saturday, August 16, 2008
AND NICE TO MEET YOU TOO VLAD
Thanks for your Grandfather's book that you gave us
A story worth telling with some amazing pictures of how he and his colleagues toiled to build the town and city of Magadan
THE NICEST THING ABOUT MAGADAN
As we said again today at lunch with our friends
Our Family, of course
And the people we met,who made us welcome and were so open about their lives, likes and dislikes. And, their curiosity about "New Zealand" too
Russians are big-hearted, warm and emotional people
These "Far East Russians" are too
Our Family, of course
And the people we met,who made us welcome and were so open about their lives, likes and dislikes. And, their curiosity about "New Zealand" too
Russians are big-hearted, warm and emotional people
These "Far East Russians" are too
NICE VIEWS OF THE OCEAN, ON A LOVELY DAY TOO
A lot of this does actually "freeze over" in Winter. The next stop from here is Alaska. Apart from the richness of the fishing grounds, there is a lot of talk about vast oil and gas reserves discovered offshore.
A FAMILY OUTING TO THE BEACH
Nikita did a good job by picking the wild flowers for his Mother & Sister
Monday, August 11, 2008
VIEWS OF AND FROM OUR APARTMENT
The steel door has two deadlocks and locking bolts around 3 sides of the frame. We were the only apartment to have a light outside on the landing
The entrance to our block, which was better than most. The paper notice on the door evidently says "Don't throw rubbish out of the windows"
A good view of the central area between the blocks. Designed and built long before anyone would ever have expected to have a car, cars are now parked everywhere. They have destroyed all of the pavements and much of the "green" area, which itself is not maintained. Rubbish is piled up in the open area and regularly burnt (Underneath a sign that says "No fires")
From our kitchen window, looking at the Childrens Hospital, where Mother and baby spent the first month. The building is typical in the exterior "non maintained" appearance and 40 years of Magadan climate has taken its toll. Evidently, the inside is fine and full of new equipment. We saw kids taken outside to play a couple of times, although the grounds are not maintained either.
They say a new hospital is to be built "soon"
Looking the other way, towards a main road. The block in the distance is where we went for lunch to a "USSR" old-style workers canteen
The entrance to our block, which was better than most. The paper notice on the door evidently says "Don't throw rubbish out of the windows"
A good view of the central area between the blocks. Designed and built long before anyone would ever have expected to have a car, cars are now parked everywhere. They have destroyed all of the pavements and much of the "green" area, which itself is not maintained. Rubbish is piled up in the open area and regularly burnt (Underneath a sign that says "No fires")
From our kitchen window, looking at the Childrens Hospital, where Mother and baby spent the first month. The building is typical in the exterior "non maintained" appearance and 40 years of Magadan climate has taken its toll. Evidently, the inside is fine and full of new equipment. We saw kids taken outside to play a couple of times, although the grounds are not maintained either.
They say a new hospital is to be built "soon"
Looking the other way, towards a main road. The block in the distance is where we went for lunch to a "USSR" old-style workers canteen
Sunday, August 10, 2008
FROM OUR RIDE ON THE FERRIS WHEEL
The Cathedral taking shape in the background
Church in the Park
The "hot water plant" towers dominate the skyline
The "blue church" ; the "Christening House" is on the left
Church in the Park
The "hot water plant" towers dominate the skyline
The "blue church" ; the "Christening House" is on the left
FLIGHTS TO MAGADAN
I commented twice to the RP that "Dalavia" acted as if this was the first time they had ever put a flight in the air....
The checkin process was a complete shambles, especially at Magadan
At the 9.05am departure time we were still in the queue. "We must act like Russians" said the RP, so we then joined everyone else in elbowing and pushing our way down to the front. We were then tuned up by two lots of staff for "being late" and told to "hurry"
I then noted the 3 boarding passes had us in different rows. When I tried to point out that it was not possible to seat a child on their own, the ground staff and the Flight Attendant just shrugged it off. The RP took charge and in a return to her Aeroflot Flight Manager days rearranged two lots of people so we could sit together
We eventually got in the air at 10.20am. On neither flight was there any attempt to check seat belts and stow hand baggage, which was everywhere. All announcements were in Russian, with two of them scolding people for "smoking", in the toilets I guess
The 32 year old aircraft was surprisingly clean and tidy inside and exactly as the RP fondly remembered it. ("Don't worry Boys, the IL62 is a very strong plane" said the RP) The exterior was a different story. There was no word from the flight deck on either sector ; on arrival at Khabarovsk, I watched from the bus as the Captain came downstairs and went and patted one of the main gear tyres, for luck and with thanks I guess
All the baggage is manhandled,literally. At both ends, (and for our arrival on Asiana), an open truck was used and the bags thrown (literally) to and from the hold
Of course, being Russia, this only took place at the last possible moment and with minimum speed. I watched the unloading at Khabarovsk,as our friends were waiting, and noted the driver went back to his cab to read the newspaper. Only 45 minutes this time
All this was taking place with the aircraft a mere 100 metres from the terminal itself
The checkin process was a complete shambles, especially at Magadan
At the 9.05am departure time we were still in the queue. "We must act like Russians" said the RP, so we then joined everyone else in elbowing and pushing our way down to the front. We were then tuned up by two lots of staff for "being late" and told to "hurry"
I then noted the 3 boarding passes had us in different rows. When I tried to point out that it was not possible to seat a child on their own, the ground staff and the Flight Attendant just shrugged it off. The RP took charge and in a return to her Aeroflot Flight Manager days rearranged two lots of people so we could sit together
We eventually got in the air at 10.20am. On neither flight was there any attempt to check seat belts and stow hand baggage, which was everywhere. All announcements were in Russian, with two of them scolding people for "smoking", in the toilets I guess
The 32 year old aircraft was surprisingly clean and tidy inside and exactly as the RP fondly remembered it. ("Don't worry Boys, the IL62 is a very strong plane" said the RP) The exterior was a different story. There was no word from the flight deck on either sector ; on arrival at Khabarovsk, I watched from the bus as the Captain came downstairs and went and patted one of the main gear tyres, for luck and with thanks I guess
All the baggage is manhandled,literally. At both ends, (and for our arrival on Asiana), an open truck was used and the bags thrown (literally) to and from the hold
Of course, being Russia, this only took place at the last possible moment and with minimum speed. I watched the unloading at Khabarovsk,as our friends were waiting, and noted the driver went back to his cab to read the newspaper. Only 45 minutes this time
All this was taking place with the aircraft a mere 100 metres from the terminal itself
DID I MENTION THE COLD SHOWERS ?
In keeping with most of Russia, Magadan has a central hotwater supply
Two days after we arrived, it was shut down for 10 days for maintenance....
I got used to the daily morning cold shower, although the RP wimped out and insisted on filling every available container with hot water from our kettle
The Parents evidently had the luxury of their own "boiler" and every two days the Kids and Nikita raced over there for a treatment
The plant is a huge one and is coal-fired, all the coal being shipped in from elsewhere(during the Summer)The two chimneys were spewing clouds of smoke for the first two days of our stay, not a good look in this environment
The street next to ours had been closed and ripped up for the complete replacement of the two large water pipes
The RP and I were amused on our daily walking commutes to watch the "work" in progress. Over the 10 days we noted they had replaced perhaps 100m. Several times we noted 2-3 guys jammed in the cab of the digger or the truck fast asleep, and on another the crane driver slumped over the controls
When in the area, Alexei(like many others it appeared)simply drove up the footpath and past the barriers at either end
Two days after we arrived, it was shut down for 10 days for maintenance....
I got used to the daily morning cold shower, although the RP wimped out and insisted on filling every available container with hot water from our kettle
The Parents evidently had the luxury of their own "boiler" and every two days the Kids and Nikita raced over there for a treatment
The plant is a huge one and is coal-fired, all the coal being shipped in from elsewhere(during the Summer)The two chimneys were spewing clouds of smoke for the first two days of our stay, not a good look in this environment
The street next to ours had been closed and ripped up for the complete replacement of the two large water pipes
The RP and I were amused on our daily walking commutes to watch the "work" in progress. Over the 10 days we noted they had replaced perhaps 100m. Several times we noted 2-3 guys jammed in the cab of the digger or the truck fast asleep, and on another the crane driver slumped over the controls
When in the area, Alexei(like many others it appeared)simply drove up the footpath and past the barriers at either end
LIFE ON THE STREET
Given the relatively benign weather and lots of daylight, there always seemed to be a lot of people out and about
Lots of street traders too, nearly all women, and selling everything that could fetch some coin
One old woman had a box top of old nuts and bolts for sale
The street market is known as the "Chinese Market" because.....that's the people who run it,(who seem to be openly resented by the "locals")
We would have been lost here without the RP, who successfully negotiated the purchase of very good "brand" tracksuits for Nikita and I at approx USD$15 each and a nice pair of trainers for me at about USD$18
Several times noted reasonably dressed guys drunk-as-skunks in the morning and lots of people, young and old, lying around drinking at night. There are bottles everywhere
Whilst I waited outside the DVD store one morning, two people, man and woman, independently weaved their way down the footpath and collapsed into the shrubbery outside the shop. The man was still there, flat on his back, when we passed by hours later
We walked a lot, from the Kids' apartment to ours and also most days with the baby
The "footpaths" are a joke and you need a pretty good pushchair just to progress at all
Hardly anyone stops for pedestrians either, unless you push the point
Why the rush, when there is nowhere to go ?
Lots of street traders too, nearly all women, and selling everything that could fetch some coin
One old woman had a box top of old nuts and bolts for sale
The street market is known as the "Chinese Market" because.....that's the people who run it,(who seem to be openly resented by the "locals")
We would have been lost here without the RP, who successfully negotiated the purchase of very good "brand" tracksuits for Nikita and I at approx USD$15 each and a nice pair of trainers for me at about USD$18
Several times noted reasonably dressed guys drunk-as-skunks in the morning and lots of people, young and old, lying around drinking at night. There are bottles everywhere
Whilst I waited outside the DVD store one morning, two people, man and woman, independently weaved their way down the footpath and collapsed into the shrubbery outside the shop. The man was still there, flat on his back, when we passed by hours later
We walked a lot, from the Kids' apartment to ours and also most days with the baby
The "footpaths" are a joke and you need a pretty good pushchair just to progress at all
Hardly anyone stops for pedestrians either, unless you push the point
Why the rush, when there is nowhere to go ?
(NO) COFFEE IN MAGADAN
Correct
Although we did get Ksenia and Alexei's own machine at home going once or twice
The "cafe" scene has yet to reach Magadan.....
"Samantha's" (allegedly owned by an American) bills itself as a fast food joint
We went there and ordered toasted sandwiches and burgers off the large signs with pictures over the counter
"They're off Dear" (I assume) the woman told Alexei
She then pointed to the "hot dishes" of local food on the counter
The RP and I decided on a "romantic dinner for two" and were directed to a basement restaurant billed as "Old Estonian" style
A comedy, especially when we tried to order a bottle of wine and.....an ice bucket
"What do you need that for ?" asked the young girl
And then, when the RP asked for......ice......for the ice bucket, the girl said "I don't know what to do"
We grappled with other issues, like my food arriving 5 minutes before the RP's, ("Did you want it together ?")
Surprisingly, for me, although there were a lot of "street traders" and a market itself, no one was cooking/offering food
Although we did get Ksenia and Alexei's own machine at home going once or twice
The "cafe" scene has yet to reach Magadan.....
"Samantha's" (allegedly owned by an American) bills itself as a fast food joint
We went there and ordered toasted sandwiches and burgers off the large signs with pictures over the counter
"They're off Dear" (I assume) the woman told Alexei
She then pointed to the "hot dishes" of local food on the counter
The RP and I decided on a "romantic dinner for two" and were directed to a basement restaurant billed as "Old Estonian" style
A comedy, especially when we tried to order a bottle of wine and.....an ice bucket
"What do you need that for ?" asked the young girl
And then, when the RP asked for......ice......for the ice bucket, the girl said "I don't know what to do"
We grappled with other issues, like my food arriving 5 minutes before the RP's, ("Did you want it together ?")
Surprisingly, for me, although there were a lot of "street traders" and a market itself, no one was cooking/offering food
OUR NEW FAMILY
We really enjoyed meeting Alexei's Parents
Miroslav and Luba are warm-hearted, down-to-earth people
We celebrated their 28th Anniversary, (they had known each other since school)
As an Army conscript, Miroslav had been sent from the Ukraine to Magadan. He made a good friend who was from Magadan itself, and after release, decided to stay
He did go back for Luba.....who against her Mother's wishes followed her new Husband to Magadan......"I cried for weeks" She told us
They lived in a hostel for 9 years until they were finally allocated their own apartment, raised two fine children, Alexei and Larisa, and built a very successful retail business
Miroslav has a terrific twinkle in his eyes, and now knows an English word - "John"
This is quickly followed by, (in Russian),"Drink your beer"
Miroslav and Luba are warm-hearted, down-to-earth people
We celebrated their 28th Anniversary, (they had known each other since school)
As an Army conscript, Miroslav had been sent from the Ukraine to Magadan. He made a good friend who was from Magadan itself, and after release, decided to stay
He did go back for Luba.....who against her Mother's wishes followed her new Husband to Magadan......"I cried for weeks" She told us
They lived in a hostel for 9 years until they were finally allocated their own apartment, raised two fine children, Alexei and Larisa, and built a very successful retail business
Miroslav has a terrific twinkle in his eyes, and now knows an English word - "John"
This is quickly followed by, (in Russian),"Drink your beer"
AND NOW, A CORRECTION
Alexei's Mother Luba reminded me I should not talk of "Siberia"
In fact, we are in the "Far East Region" of this huge country
I stand corrected
"Siberia" itself begins "about" 2000kms West of Magadan
We asked a lot of times about access
Our museum guide repeatedly referred to the "island of Magadan", in other words the only practical means of access (until flights appeared, for those who could afford it) was and is by ship, mostly during Summer
Alexei and others commented on the high cost of air fares to Moscow, and said for most people, leaving is not an option
In fact, we are in the "Far East Region" of this huge country
I stand corrected
"Siberia" itself begins "about" 2000kms West of Magadan
We asked a lot of times about access
Our museum guide repeatedly referred to the "island of Magadan", in other words the only practical means of access (until flights appeared, for those who could afford it) was and is by ship, mostly during Summer
Alexei and others commented on the high cost of air fares to Moscow, and said for most people, leaving is not an option
Thursday, July 31, 2008
MUSEUM PICTURES/UPDATED
Nikita explains where New Zealand is and "how we got to Magadan"
This is a perfectly preserved "baby" mammoth, found just a few years back when excavating for a building site
Examples of standard issue gulag clothing, these ones allegedly for "Summer" use, each item numbered
A bizarre object, note the crude wiring. There are pictures of this atop one of the camp buildings. Evidently, when the "daily production quota" had been met, the "star" was lit up - This meant you would then be fed
A typical example of crude camp signage, which says "Entry prohibited"
This is a perfectly preserved "baby" mammoth, found just a few years back when excavating for a building site
Examples of standard issue gulag clothing, these ones allegedly for "Summer" use, each item numbered
A bizarre object, note the crude wiring. There are pictures of this atop one of the camp buildings. Evidently, when the "daily production quota" had been met, the "star" was lit up - This meant you would then be fed
A typical example of crude camp signage, which says "Entry prohibited"
AN AFTERNOON AT THE MUSEUM
Alexei had had to check when an English-speaking guide was available, and "today was the day"
But, first we had to negotiate our way past the old lady guarding the cloakroom. She and the RP then engaged in protracted discussion about whether Nikita and I would surrender our hats and jackets. And we didn't
But wait, Alexei then had to put his head through the wall to negotiate the pricing for these foreigners, and, Oh Dear, they had 2 cameras as well (Separate charge, for each). At last, pricing of 1000 RUB (NZD$50-00)was agreed and our guide appeared
A nicely dressed middle-aged lady with quite good English, who was pleased to meet the RP and have long chats, but mystified as to why Nikita as a Muscovite could not speak Russian. She did enjoy a few minutes with him with a "globe" whilst he pointed out where we came from and showed the passage of our 5 flights. Much sighing from her, I don't think they get many NZ visitors...
It was worth it, we had no less than 3.5 hours. Different rooms on 2 floors, all nicely laid out, but all signs/labels in Russian. Every room had 2-3 women attendants half-asleep on their chairs. One roused herself to tell Nikita off for leaning on a barrier
The moving part was the section that dealt with the "repression/Gulag" period. The living conditions were terrible,the typical clothing and tools were unbelievably basic, and to make their misery worse, they were shot at random in their thousands
All were buried in crudely numbered mass graves, there was and is no way to trace who ended up where
Copies of "before and after" death certificates were on display too. "Before" had cause of death either "blank" or heart condition etc. The "after" began to be issued after Stalin's death when the gulags began to be wound down (for political prisoners at least) and had written "shot" or "shooting"
The first Regional Governor himself was not immune, Stalin recalling him to Moscow after allegations were made he was "too soft" on the prisoners. He then faced the firing squad
Sobering to know that the Families of those denounced and transported also suffered, at the least loss of all "privileges" and official shaming, plus in many cases being sent as well. Most never returned home, even if they survived
The rest of the museum also interesting for modern mining activities, (Picture of Al Gore as V-P signing a huge financing deal for a gold mine)and lots of maps of the huge region, mostly marked as "secret" in their day. Also,lots of USSR-era certificates of appreciation for those who worked in the Region in those harsh conditions, probably to retire worn-out and in poor health only to see their "benefits" and pensions wiped out in the "reform" period with the breakup of the USSR itself
There was just time for me to get scolded by the toilet attendant for entering the "Ladies" (She took time out from washing her lunch dishes in the sink) "Can you not read hat signs ?" asked the RP. "They were Russian hats" I quickly replied
To wind down, we departed for afternoon tea at an old style worker-type restaurant, a relic of the USSR we were told. 3 courses, of course
But, first we had to negotiate our way past the old lady guarding the cloakroom. She and the RP then engaged in protracted discussion about whether Nikita and I would surrender our hats and jackets. And we didn't
But wait, Alexei then had to put his head through the wall to negotiate the pricing for these foreigners, and, Oh Dear, they had 2 cameras as well (Separate charge, for each). At last, pricing of 1000 RUB (NZD$50-00)was agreed and our guide appeared
A nicely dressed middle-aged lady with quite good English, who was pleased to meet the RP and have long chats, but mystified as to why Nikita as a Muscovite could not speak Russian. She did enjoy a few minutes with him with a "globe" whilst he pointed out where we came from and showed the passage of our 5 flights. Much sighing from her, I don't think they get many NZ visitors...
It was worth it, we had no less than 3.5 hours. Different rooms on 2 floors, all nicely laid out, but all signs/labels in Russian. Every room had 2-3 women attendants half-asleep on their chairs. One roused herself to tell Nikita off for leaning on a barrier
The moving part was the section that dealt with the "repression/Gulag" period. The living conditions were terrible,the typical clothing and tools were unbelievably basic, and to make their misery worse, they were shot at random in their thousands
All were buried in crudely numbered mass graves, there was and is no way to trace who ended up where
Copies of "before and after" death certificates were on display too. "Before" had cause of death either "blank" or heart condition etc. The "after" began to be issued after Stalin's death when the gulags began to be wound down (for political prisoners at least) and had written "shot" or "shooting"
The first Regional Governor himself was not immune, Stalin recalling him to Moscow after allegations were made he was "too soft" on the prisoners. He then faced the firing squad
Sobering to know that the Families of those denounced and transported also suffered, at the least loss of all "privileges" and official shaming, plus in many cases being sent as well. Most never returned home, even if they survived
The rest of the museum also interesting for modern mining activities, (Picture of Al Gore as V-P signing a huge financing deal for a gold mine)and lots of maps of the huge region, mostly marked as "secret" in their day. Also,lots of USSR-era certificates of appreciation for those who worked in the Region in those harsh conditions, probably to retire worn-out and in poor health only to see their "benefits" and pensions wiped out in the "reform" period with the breakup of the USSR itself
There was just time for me to get scolded by the toilet attendant for entering the "Ladies" (She took time out from washing her lunch dishes in the sink) "Can you not read hat signs ?" asked the RP. "They were Russian hats" I quickly replied
To wind down, we departed for afternoon tea at an old style worker-type restaurant, a relic of the USSR we were told. 3 courses, of course
"MASK OF SORROWS" - PICS
The RP put wild flowers in the arms of the weeping woman, who recognises the suffering of the women and children, (an "odd number" of flowers to respect the dead)
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
"THE MASK OF SORROWS"
Yesterday was a nice day weather-wise, so time for a trip out of town to visit Magadan's most famous landmark
"The Mask of Sorrows" is to mark the period of "Stalin's repressions". It is the work of a Russian-American artist with some Russian help, and we were later surprised to learn that it is one of three identical sites, the other two in Siberian cities
Quite sobering to think that this is the most visible way of marking the murder and most inhumane treatment of hundreds of thousands of people. We were also reminded not all were Russians, there were Bulgarians, Poles, Romanians, and even Japanese POW
There was a Council cleaning crew of 2 young woman working with brooms, whilst the 2 guys looked on. They had collected a huge bin of mostly liquor bottles ; a couple of young guys sitting up on the hill were about to contribute some more
Nikita and the RP collected wild flowers for the Memorial
You can see all over Magadan itself and down the harbour too
"The Mask of Sorrows" is to mark the period of "Stalin's repressions". It is the work of a Russian-American artist with some Russian help, and we were later surprised to learn that it is one of three identical sites, the other two in Siberian cities
Quite sobering to think that this is the most visible way of marking the murder and most inhumane treatment of hundreds of thousands of people. We were also reminded not all were Russians, there were Bulgarians, Poles, Romanians, and even Japanese POW
There was a Council cleaning crew of 2 young woman working with brooms, whilst the 2 guys looked on. They had collected a huge bin of mostly liquor bottles ; a couple of young guys sitting up on the hill were about to contribute some more
Nikita and the RP collected wild flowers for the Memorial
You can see all over Magadan itself and down the harbour too
Monday, July 28, 2008
OUR NEW FAMILY
Miroslav, Luba (Alexei's Parents), Larisa (Sister), her Husband Dima and lovely little Daughter Kristina, at our picnic at the 'Summerhouse' (Dacha)
A wonderful afternoon and evening, "Papa Miroslav" visibly enjoying his children and grandchildren
Did I mention the food and drink - There was enough............more than enough, as usual
Papa got Nikita to help him with the "BBQ" - We had wonderful "shashlik"
The garden all around the house was full of vegetables, even strawberries
THE RUSSIAN PRINCESS + I "AT THE BEACH"
Hard to believe that where we are standing is "iced up" for Winter
The water was clear, and a sea otter poked his head up from time to time
It was warm and sunny - At 7.30pm
LUCKILY I'VE GOT A DRINKING BUDDY
Notice how Alexei has cunningly tucked a 'spare' in his jacket for emergency use
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