AN AFTERNOON AT THE MUSEUM

Alexei had had to check when an English-speaking guide was available, and "today was the day"

But, first we had to negotiate our way past the old lady guarding the cloakroom. She and the RP then engaged in protracted discussion about whether Nikita and I would surrender our hats and jackets. And we didn't

But wait, Alexei then had to put his head through the wall to negotiate the pricing for these foreigners, and, Oh Dear, they had 2 cameras as well (Separate charge, for each). At last, pricing of 1000 RUB (NZD$50-00)was agreed and our guide appeared

A nicely dressed middle-aged lady with quite good English, who was pleased to meet the RP and have long chats, but mystified as to why Nikita as a Muscovite could not speak Russian. She did enjoy a few minutes with him with a "globe" whilst he pointed out where we came from and showed the passage of our 5 flights. Much sighing from her, I don't think they get many NZ visitors...

It was worth it, we had no less than 3.5 hours. Different rooms on 2 floors, all nicely laid out, but all signs/labels in Russian. Every room had 2-3 women attendants half-asleep on their chairs. One roused herself to tell Nikita off for leaning on a barrier

The moving part was the section that dealt with the "repression/Gulag" period. The living conditions were terrible,the typical clothing and tools were unbelievably basic, and to make their misery worse, they were shot at random in their thousands

All were buried in crudely numbered mass graves, there was and is no way to trace who ended up where

Copies of "before and after" death certificates were on display too. "Before" had cause of death either "blank" or heart condition etc. The "after" began to be issued after Stalin's death when the gulags began to be wound down (for political prisoners at least) and had written "shot" or "shooting"

The first Regional Governor himself was not immune, Stalin recalling him to Moscow after allegations were made he was "too soft" on the prisoners. He then faced the firing squad

Sobering to know that the Families of those denounced and transported also suffered, at the least loss of all "privileges" and official shaming, plus in many cases being sent as well. Most never returned home, even if they survived

The rest of the museum also interesting for modern mining activities, (Picture of Al Gore as V-P signing a huge financing deal for a gold mine)and lots of maps of the huge region, mostly marked as "secret" in their day. Also,lots of USSR-era certificates of appreciation for those who worked in the Region in those harsh conditions, probably to retire worn-out and in poor health only to see their "benefits" and pensions wiped out in the "reform" period with the breakup of the USSR itself

There was just time for me to get scolded by the toilet attendant for entering the "Ladies" (She took time out from washing her lunch dishes in the sink) "Can you not read hat signs ?" asked the RP. "They were Russian hats" I quickly replied

To wind down, we departed for afternoon tea at an old style worker-type restaurant, a relic of the USSR we were told. 3 courses, of course